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The Bearded Chef of Akko

“Habibi,” says Uri Jeremias over and over as he strolls through the old Arab market of Akko, copy of Israel Hayom under his arm, holding court with...

Mexican Desserts and the Magical Can

My earliest memory of condensed milk involves my aunt Lina, who would often take my sister and me on adventures in our hometown of...

Preppers Don’t Survive, They Thrive

So far, I’ve been lucky. On September 11, I watched the towers burning from my bedroom window, but my Lower East Side apartment remained...

A Tiny Can Full of Smoke

Canned chipotles are my secret or, rather, not-so-secret pantry essential. I first discovered them while living in Chicago in the early 2000s, a time...

The Horror Show Sealed in a Bulging Can

Igrew up with both a love of canned foods and a free-floating anxiety about medical calamities. The former was thanks largely to Spaghetti-O’s, while...

Indian Mangoes: Crossing Continents in a Can

Four summers ago, while perusing the outdoor fruit section of Berkeley’s Monterey Market, I stumbled upon several crates of bright yellow mangoes that had...

15 Flavors of Spam and Counting

Spam occupies an outsize space in the American culinary consciousness as a particularly yecch food. There are a few possible reasons for this. Maybe it’s the...

Colonialism in a Can

It’s hard for me to go a week without eating something out of a can. Growing up a Filipina-American kid in the Bay Area,...

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